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Hosted by Corinthian Yacht Club of Portland |
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 Race Tips were provided by Timm Lessley, 2006 Rear Commodore and Offshore Race Organizer for CYC Prep Well, Sail Fast Timm Race Tip #1 The Oregon Offshore Race Organizers take the safety of the participants very seriously. Coast Guard Regulations and the PIYA requirements are a good place to start and skippers will meet these requirements as a minimum. However, just meeting these requirements, may not be all that is required to keep your vessel and the occupants safe. To be safe you must prepare your crew and vessel for expected, and unexpected events. This is a huge topic, and there are many different ways to be safe. As a primer, I will cover the preparation of my Cal 9.2 "Freewind". We have owned her since 1979, and have sailed her in numerous coastal races, and the Pacific Cup. She has logged 50,000 fast & safe race miles. Let me share with you some ideas of preparation on our Offshore Racer. Crew Training - Each position has the duties defined and key words are used to communicate, such as "standby", "made", "ease", "harden", and the like. Since it is often difficult to hear the foredeck, we have him use handsignals, much like a crane signaler to communicate. Sailors can have the tendency to "get excited" and "panic". We've not found this to be very productive. Most of the crew gets their signals from the skipper, if he stays calm and methodical, odds are that many difficult situations and events can be managed much more efficient. On our bulkhead, we have a sign: "Panic equals Death" need I say more? Sailing offshore is very rewarding and beautiful, but Murphy can sometimes intrude. Each crew member should be trained on the most common at sea emergencies. Training includes the location and use of safety devices, correct radio operation, and taking command of an incident until the skipper is notified and takes charge. Often multiple failures occur at the same time, a broken spar may knock someone overboard, and then puncture the hull. What would you attend to first? Race Tip #2 It is important that I get the crew together weeks before the race. During this time we clean the boat meticulously. Okay, I know forced labor has been unpopular, but time spent cleaning familiarizes the crew where everything is stored. Cleaning provides a detailed inspection of all boat components. We particularly inspect those places where water can intrude (through hulls), and the main components (rigging/ keel) are attached. Just before the race we do a thorough wiping and shop vacuum of the bilges, to make sure no debris can clog the limber holes or bilge pumps. On Freewind we've tried to emphasize the concept of Cascading Failure. The concept means that a very small error dominos into a major failure. For example, maybe you forgot to tape over a cotter pin on a fitting, during a gybe, the sail snags on the cotter pin and tears, the flailing sail shakes out the cotter, which releases the pin. The line in the fitting releases and a section of rigging collapses.... a simple item as a piece of tape, brings down the rig. On the chart table we keep a "to do" list... anything found needing attention is written on the list so we can make sure to attend to the item before going to sea. Jobs are assigned, and once completed, inspected and signed off by the skipper. Note if you keep one list, you'll be much happier than if you make little notes on the back of a hardware store receipt. I want my crew to be able to find everything on the boat, with their eyes closed. So it is important to mandate that tools, supplies, & kits are always put back in their correct location. Hmmm, now where did that rigging cutter go? Does anyone know where the flare kit is?.. Days before the race, we "duty test" the electrical. This means to run all the electronics just like you were racing, and then recharge using the auxiliary (engine). Be sure to check all the lights, and battery fluids, and make sure that all the good stuff is working. Do a radio test, and make sure all is operating. A clean and organized boat is the beginning of a safe, fast and happy boat. Safe, fast and happy boats win more races? Of course!
Race Tip #3 (30-3-30-3) I run these numbers by my crew often during a race... they mean, what is happening in, 30 seconds, 3 minutes, 30 minutes and 3 hours. I ask this question of the crew, and see what the responses are.. usually I have some issue in mind to discuss... It is simply a fun way to say be prepared and plan ahead.
Race Tip #4
Log Calibration
Many boats now have integrated instruments. If you fall into this category, it is very important that your log transducer is calibrated. Integrated instruments like Nexus, B&G, Ockham, Raytheon, etc. use this number to calculate wind angles, speeds, and possibly current. If you are using a laptop, with navigation software like Expedition, MaxSea, RayTech, and Deckman, that uses your polars to do routing calculations, a poorly calibrated log transducer will produce incorrect results. Okay, maybe we're talking about about a few degrees, or maybe only a knot or so, but in racing, over a few hundred miles, this can be critical. It can be the difference between a pickle dish, or buying drinks for the victor. We spend many hours prepping the boat, and possibly thousands of dollars getting ready to race, you might consider also calibrating your knot log. I've included an Excel spreadsheet, given to me by Nick White, winning Naviguesser of the Volvo Around the World Race, and Americas Cup Races. It's simple to use, and requires an hour or two on the water. This spreadsheet assumes that you are able to enter an adjustment number in your instruments. If you are not able to do this, then consider calibrating a friend's boat that has this feature, and sail alongside, and adjust the trim screw on your knot meter until you read correctly. Also, you might consider keeping your log (paddle wheel) pulled and replaced with the plug, when not racing. The paddles tend to get scummy and readings are inaccurate if they are always in the water/ dirty.
Race Tip #5 When there is wind-speed, there is wind shear! What is wind shear? The main reason for wind shear is due to the Coriolis force. The wind will rotate counter clockwise on the North Hemisphere around the centre of the low pressure. Then, there is a friction between the sea surface and the free air above. This friction will slow down the airspeed at sea level and gradually up into the free air above. This friction will also decrease the effect of the Coriolis force, so the wind will shear (to the right) from sea level up to the mast top (and above). The wind transducer will only measure at one altitude, so you need to understand and consider this sheared angle to adjust the sail accordingly down to deck level. Note! Several meteorological effects will have impact on the size of the sheared wind. When cold and warm air is mixed with faster winds from higher levels, gradients and sheared winds may locally change very fast. Generally, by applying sail trim according to the size of wind shear, you can get more power out of the wind on starboard by adding more twist to match the shear (on starboard only). This will reduce the top force from the wind, move the pressure centre downwards and allow for a more forward pointing and efficient wind force. The wind instrument will "show you" that you are sailing lower than port side, but it is only a relative illusion since the reference is from your average attack angle and sail trim including wind shear. On port side, the sheared wind is "negative", and it requires more flat sail trim. The instruments will tell you that you are sailing high and fast on port tack, but this is also a relative illusion, but opposite from starboard tack. You have less wind force in the top of the sail, so the efficient wind pressure centre is moved downwards. Then, for a given heel angle, you will have a wider wind angle, which mean that you are actually not sailing as high as the instrument says! At open sea, where wind direction is stabilized, the waves will follow the wind direction that occurs at the surface. Since this wind-speed is reduced by the friction, it will therefore point towards the low pressure. This means that you will hit the waves slightly harder on starboard then port side (on the North hemisphere). This is also a reason for adding more twist and power on starboard tack! RACE TIP #6 Basic crew gear suggestion:
Race Tip #7
Most sailors use a yarn telltale located about 12 to 18 inches from
the luff on the jib to tell when the sail stalls. However, this only
tells you when the sail is stalled. http://www.arvelgentry.com/techs/A%20Review%20of%20Modern%20Sail%20Theory.pdf
Race Tip #8
To get Weather info via cell or touchtone Phone Dial 228-688-1948 Enter 1 at prompt Then, enter the five-digit (or character) station identifier, followed by the # sign, in response to the prompt. Use touchpad Number instead of letters, reference telephone key pad. I've decoded some of the stations. Listed Southern to northern, path of the race. 36603# (DMN03 - Cape Dissapointment) 46029# (46029 - Offshore Columbia River Bar) 86591# (TOKW1 - Willapa Bay, inland) 46211# (46211 - Westport Offshore) 46041# (46041 - Cape Elizabeth Offshore) 33791# (DESW1 - Destruction Island) 88491# (TTIW1 - Tatoosh Island) 46087# (46087 - Neah Bay Traffic Separator) 46088# (46088 - New Dungeness East of Victoria) 78291# (PTAW1 - Port Angeles Washington) There are many other features, like just entering your Lat/Lon, and the station will auto select the nearest weather station. Visit website for more details. http://www.ndbc.noaa.gov/dial.shtml
Race TIP #9 A simple primer is shown below, for complete information visit the www.sailmail.com website(s)!!!!!!!!
Airmail version 3 is now released for general consumption in two editions. Click the following link to go to the Airmail-3 page for download files and instructions:
Go to:
Go To: Once installed
RACE TIP #10
Gas Pedal? - where's the warp drive
button?
The genoa is an important sail because it provides a large portion of the driving force of a yacht.
There are two reasons for this:
1. The genoa has no mast in front of it to create turbulence and spoil clean flow. 2. It sails in the continual lift that is caused by the mainsail's continuous airflow. In general you should trim your genoa for drive, and your main primarily for helm balance. In strong winds the maximum sail area simply over heels the boat, it's better to reduce water drag by changing down to a smaller jib. This will maintain lift at a maximum while lowering water drag. The crew who tends the genoa need a methodical approach to cover all variables and maintain the best trim. The six basic steps of genoa trimming as as follows: 1. Select the correct genoa for the relevant wind conditions The best way to make good sail selection choices is to keep a record of the headsails you use with wind velocities and boat performance. After a while you'll have an extensive chart as a guide or experience will guide you. Genoa Wind Ranges Your genoa determines your ultimate sail power and the total heeling force. As a general rule, if your heel exceeds about 25 degrees, change down to a smaller genoa. Helm balance is another consideration. If you have too much helm, changing to a smaller genoa may be the way to solve the problem.
Headsails are generally designed for a maximum wind velocity. It is
therefore a good idea to tag your sails with their relevant wind
velocities, so you will know when to change the sail. Advise on the
headsail wind velocities can normally be obtained from your sail
maker.
2. Determine the efficiency of the genoa with the lead angle. Many new yachts today are able to move their jib leads sideways as well as fore and aft. This allows much better control over the lead angle. Sheet inboard when you have some or all of the following conditions: Medium air Flat water Experienced helmsman You want to point higher. No backwind in the main Use a wider sheeting angle when conditions demand that you sacrifice some efficiency for more reliable power: Very strong or very light wind Genoa at the top of its range Excessive backwind in the main Heavy chop or sea Inexperienced helmsman In general, pull the genoa sheet inboard in ideal conditions and outboard to play it safe at other times. If your boat isn't rigged with a side track, use a barber hauler, that pulls the genoa clew outboard or inboard. 3. Set sail depth and twist with the sheet. The genoa trimmer's primary responsibility is to maintain optimal sail shape as wind velocity and other conditions change Genoa sheet tension must be adjusted to preserve the same basic trim. The trimmer's secondary responsibility is to help the helmsman steer the boat. For example, the sheet should be let out for big waves or sudden lifts, and pulled in for flat spots. When the helmsman brings the boat back up to speed on the wind, the trimmer should slowly re-trim the sheet. All this requires constant communication, observation and concentration. Pulling in the sheet generally allows you point higher. Easing the sheet has the opposite effect, more speed and less pointing ability. Sheet tension should be changed with every change in wind velocity and direction. When a puff hits, the genoa sail stretches and gets fuller. To compensate for this change, trim in the sheet. If the wind velocity decreases, the genoa becomes less pressurised and flatter. Ease out the sheet to make the sail fuller and maintain speed through the water. Sailing through oncoming waves requires the same kind of sheet tensioning adjustments in order to maintain boat speed. The helmsman should steer up the front of a wave and down the back. The driver must consider the value of having the trimmer adjust the sails constantly to meet these changing apparent wind angles. Good genoa sheet trimming is a full time job. The genoa trimmer must continually change the setting and the trim for every change in wind, wave, and steering conditions in order to keep boat speed at the maximum. If you chose not to have a full time trimmer, then set a power based trim, to the conditions, usually mandated by the wind strength, and wave activity. 4. Set depth and twist with the fore-and-aft runner car. The fore-and-aft position of the genoa has a significant effect on twist and depth in the foot of the genoa. When sail twist matches wind twist, the genoa will be perfectly trimmed from top to bottom. Now the sail should luff simultaneously up and down the luff when you head up slowly past close-hauled. The lead position is set by luffing up slowly and watching the telltales which should "break" evenly from top to bottom at the same time. If the top telltales flutter before the bottom, the sail is twisted too much. This is corrected by move the lead forward. If the bottom telltales luff first (or the top ones stall), The move the lead aft. 5. Set depth and twist with backstay tensioners. The backstay or running backstay affect depth in the middle and upper genoa sections by controlling sag. To a lesser extent, they affect twist. When you have sailing conditions that require power in the sail ie; light airs, choppy water – you will need a deep sail. This is achieved by by easing off the backstay tension. In light airs backstay tension should be about 25% of maximum. It will be too loose if the luff curls like a spinnaker. Backstay tensioners should be adjusted continuously, in conjunction with the genoa trimmer and helmsman, to keep the boat sailing fast. 6. Set draft position with halyard tension. You should tension the halyard just enough to remove most of the horizontal wrinkles.
Other Stuff:
Use the telltales The leeward telltales should always flow aft. If they hang limp, the sail is stalled, and the genoa trimmer should ease the sheet immediately to re-attach flow. You might consider the tufts (multiple telltails in a row as in Tip #07 Steering the boat in light airs It's important for the genoa trimmer to help the helmsman respond to changes in the wind. The genoa trimmer can always react faster than the helmsman. If the helmsman tries to speed up a tack or gybe by jamming the tiller hard over, the rudder will effectively brake the boat. The genoa trimmer should let the sails turn the boat by easing the sheets. This will help the helmsman head up slowly, and the jib can be re-trimmed. This will maintain the best boat speed. When your genoa gets old, tired and out of shape. Sooner or later, all genoa sails get old and their shape starts to change from the optimum. Ageing is inevitable and a fact of life. There are a few steps you can take however to counteract the effects of ageing on a sail as follows: Trim the foot harder (closer to the chain plates) to bring the upper part of the sail closer to the spreader. Use more halyard tension to pull the draft forward. This will give you a rounder entry and more power. Increase the lead angle slightly to reduce the main sail backing caused by roundness near the leech. Move the lead back slightly to twist the leech more. Genoa Terms / Concepts Genoa Sheet: Affects twist, depth and angle of attack. Adjust to shift gears and help steer the boat. Genoa Halyard: Controls draft position. Begin with halyard just tight enough to eliminate horizontal wrinkles. Has more of an effect on sail made with elastic materials. Backstay Or Runner: Limits head stay sag. Controls overall depth of genoa, and effects draft position. More sag gives more power and makes steering easier. Genoa Lead: Fore-and-aft position alters twist. Athwartship position affects twist and sail efficiency. Telltales: Should break evenly from top to bottom. Leeward telltales should (almost) never stall.
RACE TIP #11
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This site was last updated 01/23/08
